From Murphy to Manteo, The Basics of North Carolina…

A Two-Person Tour, part 1

This just in:

Accolades like these particularly impress two TNOCSers, Ozmoe and Chuck Small.

Inspired by a recent whistle-stop UK tour post by fellow TNOCS Contributing Author JJ Live at Leeds:

From Liverpool To Leeds,This Is My Island: A Whistle-Stop UK Tour

…we’ve decided to provide a similar overview of our state.

As North Carolina has three major geographic regions from west to east, we’ll address each one with facts and their memories and thoughts of each.

Here goes!

Ozmoe:

I think most outside of western North Carolina know it for the Great Smoky Mountains;

Otherwise, people may know two municipalities:

• Home to the famous Biltmore Estate mansion, which lies less than a mile from Interstate 40, making it one of the easiest national attractions to visit by car.

• Home of Appalachian State University (ASU), whose notable alumni include Luke Combs, who hit No. 2 with “Fast Car” in 2023.

Many in the mountains live in small towns and unincorporated communities. Buncombe County (home to Asheville) and Henderson County are the only two of 23 counties in the region that have more than 90,000 residents.

The region attracted attention in 2024 the toll taken by Tropical Storm Helene.

The after-effects remain severe. One state demographer estimates the region will lose anywhere from 5% to 35% of its population to flood displacement.

That’s in part because two factors were already in play:

• Families were being priced out of Western North Carolina.
• Average age of residents was rising.

Both are problems for much of North Carolina right now.

Still, people keep coming to the mountains because the views are so scenic and the lifestyle is easygoing. What’s your take, Chuck?

Chuck:

My introduction to western North Carolina was harrowing.

I was driving a packed 1986 Ford Escort from Indiana through the Smokies in fall 1993. A beautiful view, yes, but steep highways and sharp curves meant a slow and cautious trip.

If you hike, bike or just enjoy the outdoors, the biggest challenge is narrowing where to go and what to do.

I encourage travelers on the Blue Ridge Parkway to consider any time from late April to Labor Day. It’s jam-packed in autumn and, while the leaves are beautiful, being vexed in traffic is hardly a tradeoff. (And, honestly, fall color is astounding across the state.)

As well as Banner Elk and West Jefferson, all within a half-hour of Boone. Each blends small-town charm with contemporary amenities and fine dining.

Whether you find inspiration in religious art or just want a day trip less congested than the parkways, it’s a fascinating alternative.

Boone offers lots of options as well as a great place to find old-fashioned candy and other treats at Mast General Store. (The original, in nearby Valle Crucis, is also still in business.)  

Ozmoe:

This hilly plateau consists of 36 counties ranging from 300 to 1,500 feet above sea level.

Lying in the middle of North Carolina, the Piedmont allows most residents a few hours’ access to both the mountains and the beaches. It’s also:

• Home of 9 of the top 10 most populated municipalities, beginning with Charlotte and followed by Raleigh, Greensboro, Durham, Winston-Salem, Fayetteville, Cary, High Point and Concord

• The leader among state regions with the greatest number of Tier 3 counties, 12, as compared to 3 in the Mountains and 5 in the Coastal Plain (a Tier 3 county is considered among the least economically distressed in the state)

• The most densely populated region, as well as the site of much rolling farmland, a diverse collection of wildlife, research and technology hubs, major healthcare and financial operations, many big universities and even a top zoo

The dividing lines for the Piedmont can be roughly followed by the north-south interstates serving as its unofficial borders.

The latter has a notable attraction as it goes into South Carolina. Chuck, anything to say about that?

Chuck:

Hoo boy! South of the Border is borderline by every definition you can think of (except maybe Madonna’s).

And yet, even if its kitsch factor isn’t enough of a reason for you to stop, its pragmatic location makes it a place to grab a snack and drink, check the gas and tires, and make sure that light on your dashboard doesn’t mean you’ll be stuck on the South Carolina border. (Been there, done that.)

A Freeway Free-for-All

Ozmoe:

Speaking of an attraction off I-95, let’s mention the state’s mania for building new divided highways of 4 lanes or more, since most of them involve the Piedmont.

Besides I-95 and I-77, North Carolina’s other interstates prior to the 1990s were I-26 going from Asheville south to Charleston, S.C.; I-85 connecting much of the Piedmont’s big municipalities while heading southwest to Atlanta, Ga.; and I-40 heading all the way west to California.

The urge to build more interstates grew after that and is now exploding.

One researcher estimates there have been 17 interstate highways in North Carolina either proposed, planned, partially completed, or completed within the past five years. All but two of these lie at least partly in the Piedmont.

The passion for paving seems to be more about the Republican-led state legislature trying to cater to big business than the needs of residents, especially in contrast to those wanting mass transit.

While the Charlotte Area Transit System (CATS) is a successful light rail service for the Queen City, efforts to replicate it are stymied.

For example, Go Forward is an ambitious project to get light rail connecting Durham, Cary, Raleigh and beyond to serve the 1.6 million who live in Durham and Wake counties.

It was supposed to start breaking ground this year, but lack of funding and government support has left it with an uncertain future.

But hey, residents of Durham and Wake counties could be living within an hour’s drive of at least 10 different interstates, so that’s progress. Right?

Chuck:

Tom and I are big fans of side trips and state roads.

We only use the interstates in an emergency. I will say most roads are in decent shape even in the most rural of areas.

Supposedly, work on the East Coast routes will make the trip through Virginia and North Carolina smoother and less dictated by the needs of the freight companies that own the tracks.

Ozmoe:

Getting back to the western side of the Piedmont, one attraction near the Virginia border must be mentioned.

The Andy Griffith Show was a situation comedy in production from 1960-1968. Set in a fictional small town in North Carolina, its portrayal of life there has been so strong that it’s been in constant reruns ever since.

The result is … well, something to behold, all right.

There’s a vintage squad car to tour key locations in town. One of those is Mayberry Replica Courthouse.

And of course there’s an Andy Griffith Museum, whose entrance has a statue of Andy placed in honor by the TV Land channel in 2004.

I can’t believe what kind of people would go to such a place.

Maybe the same ones on their way to South of the Border. I dunno.

What are your thoughts, Chuck?

Chuck:

Neither Tom nor I have watched much Andy Griffith in our lifetimes, though for different reasons. (I grew up in the Midwest and was only vaguely aware of it; Tom was in high school and college when it was on CBS.)

But we have enjoyed our trips to Mount Airy:

I know, shocking.

Still, our favorite Mayberry experience is at the ice cream parlor of that name in downtown Reidsville, an hour and a half east of Mount Airy and just north of The Triad.  

Ozmoe:

Southward of Mount Airy lies a major metropolitan area known officially as “the Piedmont Triad.” Most locals just call it “The Triad.” As the name implies, it consists of three big cities near one another, namely:

Winston-Salem:

Originally two cities that merged into one.

High Point:

Greensboro:

Including its own symphony and ballet, a PGA tour golf championship, seven universities and colleges, and much more.

The decline of tobacco, textiles and furniture-making in the 1990s slowed growth in these cities, as most of their economy was largely based in those industries. But they diversified and continue to thrive, with lots of festivals, museums and other attractions.  

Oh – and my family would kill me if I didn’t acknowledge Lexington, within a half hour’s drive southwest from most of The Triad.

They specialize in using tomato-based sauces with vinegar and spices for flavoring.

At this point, I’m sure some readers in eastern North Carolina will be demanding their pork barbecue is much better. We’ll give y’all equal time, I promise!

Chuck:

When I moved to North Carolina and became a newspaper copy editor, one thing I learned quickly was never to assume anything about names.

You won’t find the town of Henderson in Henderson County. And Wake Forest University? It’s not in Wake Forest (though it once was) but in Winston-Salem. Other highlights of a trip there are Reynolda Gardens and Old Salem.

Nearby, the campus of UNC-Greensboro is home to the contemporary Weatherspoon Art Museum. Seeing both sites in one day shows how far society has come in 60 years and how far it has to go.

Ozmoe:

For all you in the Charlotte area waiting for your city to be highlighted, relax. We’d never forget you. After all, you make sure we don’t do that anytime we see you!

All kidding aside, Charlotte is indeed the major city of North Carolina, built largely on the success of the banking industry. It’s also:

With nearly 1 million residents in its limits and more than three times that amount in its 18-county metropolitan area.

And home to three professional sports league franchises, the Panthers in the NFL, the Hornets in the NBA and a Major League Soccer team

Located near the border with South Carolina, Charlotte boasts an incredible skyline, an impressive arts and foodie scene, and the largest land area in North Carolina (more than 300 square miles) among its many assets.

Yes, at times it can seem like it’s trying too hard to emulate or even overtake Atlanta as the Southeast’s top urban area, but that’s part of its growing pains.

And its charm, some might add.

No other place in North Carolina has so many ambitious plans ready for the future, which does seem boundless given the energy you can sense visiting the city.

Chuck:

Just as the Weatherspoon Art Museum is a must-see in Greensboro, so too is Charlotte’s Mint Museum of Art.

The museum has two separate locations – one downtown (which, in Charlotte parlance, is called Uptown) and one in the city’s Eastover neighborhood. That location once had been the branch of the U.S. Mint, hence the museum’s name.

Another highlight – one that, as a non-parent, I was surprised to enjoy – is the Discovery Place science museum.

Ozmoe:

Gee, all this and we haven’t even gotten to our current hometowns of Durham and Raleigh yet, Chuck!

What do you think about making this into a two-parter so we can talk more in-depth about them plus the other region of North Carolina?

Chuck:

Sounds good. So much to visit…and so many places to eat! Can’t wait.

to be continued…

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